其他在Bonham用餐:Oct 16,Sept 16,June 16,May16,Mar16,12月15日,Oct15

The best meals I ate in London this year are at this auctioneer’s little gem of a restaurant. You can tell how much I bloody loved it from mylast blog postin which I was a total runaway froth-fest. I couldn’t help myself. I loved it that much.

Tom Kemble has mad, mad skills, he can seriously cook, and he’s still getting better at it. There’s just this lightness of touch with his food, people talk about this elusive balance and his cooking is It. It begins with sourcing of great produce, an (almost) obsession ala his previous employers, but that’s only half the equation. The rest is the talent to take it to the yonder. Tom’s beyond is his ability to reshape everything with gorgeously soft, rounded corners, in a natural, minimal interventionist manner. This is in my Cambio and Medlar category of personal favourites, this is my sort of love. I totally dig his gastronomy and I can eat his food any day of the week.

This second visit was to try his supperclub menu, which takes place on Thursdays nights (for now). 4 courses for £55, an omakase so to speak, needless to say the 2nd meal has confirmed Tom’s genius and that he is cooking with even greater precision with every service.

As before, the meal starts off with a savoury nibble-portioned crackers as an amuse before we broke into the courses.




Utterly effortless cooking, it just looks so simple but it gives you all these complex emotions. The flavours are so round and in total harmony. This is a pointe. This is skill. Delicious.



That dashi froth, quietly bubbling away, leaves a brief impression of eating fish by sea. It’s aromatic and so soothing, redolent of that Heston sound of the sea dish. My best guess is that the nori has been dehydrated to a powder and then generously sprinkled across plate, giving this dish a phantom sensation of seaweed. It brings like a funk or an edginess to the fish’s charred crust (look how ‘flat’ the surface is), a sense of meatiness that elevates this piece of pan roasted cod. Inside, the fish is translucent, flaky, original textures totally retained and is perfectly cooked. It is yet another superbly executed dish. Gracefully balanced flavours with subtle aromas that just teases your olfactory no end. Ridiculously good.

No.3 Roast squab pigeon and crispy leg with crapaudine beetroot, damnson puree, radicchio tardivo and offal sauce


我记得米克尔的鸽子菜,老实说,他对大胆口味的偏爱对我来说太过分了(我有他的菜)hare royale曾经,这是一次挑战)。

I braced myself but then, gasp… lightness. How? Night and day, total contrast to expectation. Where did he source this pigeon? How is this pigeon so clean in flavour? This is more like duck or quail. The skin is crispy and has a thin layer of buttery fat just underneath. The cooking of the pigeon itself was precision personified. It’s very tender, cuts easily and has this sensation of juiciness, like sealed-in moisture from being well rested. Gorgeous.

The best part however was certainly the offal sauce, but not because of bold flavours. Rather, it was surprisingly light, a sense of freshness, a fresh chocolate sauce, an impression of whipped liver, or something like that.

I understand game and offal, the big flavours and all, but it’s often over-emphasized, which is when it becomes overpowering for me. Tom has done the exact opposite, he’s dialed it down, smoothed it out and made for cool runnings on the palate. Precision game. My mind is blowing up as I try to process his cooking.

The three courses just flew by too quickly, I couldn’t believe the meal was almost over. I was longing for more savoury dishes, I could easily have had three more, no, at that moment, I wanted three more.


No.4 The meal ended with a raw pear Sorbet palate cleanser followed by his signature chocolate tart, which by now, must be one of London’s best puddings.



We met Tom afterwards, when he came out to greet his customers. Nice guy. It was a hero worship moment for me, we praised his cooking and he talked briefly about where he sourced those lovely French pigeons. He then told me that most of the time there’s only 3 people in the kitchen, himself, his sous chef Theo and another helping hand, which makes me respect this restaurant even more. Mad props.


Happy Christmas, eat well and stay safe kids, see you in 2016.

The Details

Lunch Mon-Fri, Supper Club on Thursdays only
7 Haunch of Venison Yard W1K 5ES
Tel : +44 20 7468 5868
Tube : Bond Street


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