邦汉姆餐厅:2015年最佳酒店

其他在Bonham用餐:Oct 16,Sept 16,June 16,May16,Mar16,12月15日,Oct15

The best meals I ate in London this year are at this auctioneer’s little gem of a restaurant. You can tell how much I bloody loved it from mylast blog postin which I was a total runaway froth-fest. I couldn’t help myself. I loved it that much.

Tom Kemble has mad, mad skills, he can seriously cook, and he’s still getting better at it. There’s just this lightness of touch with his food, people talk about this elusive balance and his cooking is It. It begins with sourcing of great produce, an (almost) obsession ala his previous employers, but that’s only half the equation. The rest is the talent to take it to the yonder. Tom’s beyond is his ability to reshape everything with gorgeously soft, rounded corners, in a natural, minimal interventionist manner. This is in my Cambio and Medlar category of personal favourites, this is my sort of love. I totally dig his gastronomy and I can eat his food any day of the week.

This second visit was to try his supperclub menu, which takes place on Thursdays nights (for now). 4 courses for £55, an omakase so to speak, needless to say the 2nd meal has confirmed Tom’s genius and that he is cooking with even greater precision with every service.

As before, the meal starts off with a savoury nibble-portioned crackers as an amuse before we broke into the courses.

1号塞莱克“Taglaitelle”搭配黑色块菌和帕尔马生

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立即散发出根素和松露的香味,乌玛米的味道。闻起来很香。芹菜片(烫过?)伪装成Taglaitelle的形状,质地柔软,可以在叉上旋转。这蔬菜就像意大利面绝地的心窍,只会让我笑。菜里有一些潮湿,这是一种天然果汁的“水”,芹菜被淋在里面。

Utterly effortless cooking, it just looks so simple but it gives you all these complex emotions. The flavours are so round and in total harmony. This is a pointe. This is skill. Delicious.

2号烧焦的玉米鳕鱼,配牛崔、小黄菇、海藻和大石乳液

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That dashi froth, quietly bubbling away, leaves a brief impression of eating fish by sea. It’s aromatic and so soothing, redolent of that Heston sound of the sea dish. My best guess is that the nori has been dehydrated to a powder and then generously sprinkled across plate, giving this dish a phantom sensation of seaweed. It brings like a funk or an edginess to the fish’s charred crust (look how ‘flat’ the surface is), a sense of meatiness that elevates this piece of pan roasted cod. Inside, the fish is translucent, flaky, original textures totally retained and is perfectly cooked. It is yet another superbly executed dish. Gracefully balanced flavours with subtle aromas that just teases your olfactory no end. Ridiculously good.

No.3 Roast squab pigeon and crispy leg with crapaudine beetroot, damnson puree, radicchio tardivo and offal sauce

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我记得米克尔的鸽子菜,老实说,他对大胆口味的偏爱对我来说太过分了(我有他的菜)hare royale曾经,这是一次挑战)。

I braced myself but then, gasp… lightness. How? Night and day, total contrast to expectation. Where did he source this pigeon? How is this pigeon so clean in flavour? This is more like duck or quail. The skin is crispy and has a thin layer of buttery fat just underneath. The cooking of the pigeon itself was precision personified. It’s very tender, cuts easily and has this sensation of juiciness, like sealed-in moisture from being well rested. Gorgeous.

The best part however was certainly the offal sauce, but not because of bold flavours. Rather, it was surprisingly light, a sense of freshness, a fresh chocolate sauce, an impression of whipped liver, or something like that.

I understand game and offal, the big flavours and all, but it’s often over-emphasized, which is when it becomes overpowering for me. Tom has done the exact opposite, he’s dialed it down, smoothed it out and made for cool runnings on the palate. Precision game. My mind is blowing up as I try to process his cooking.

The three courses just flew by too quickly, I couldn’t believe the meal was almost over. I was longing for more savoury dishes, I could easily have had three more, no, at that moment, I wanted three more.

(酒上的侧记:我喝了一杯阿塔兰吉庆祝酒,这是非常有趣的。这不是皮诺,而是Bdx的混合物,我不知道他们做了。这是令人惊讶的好,让我想起了出租车弗朗克甚至卡里尼亚,有着古怪的野花,胡椒,但有性感的脊梁甜梅乐。很容易成为圣埃米利昂。全身,几乎不透明,严肃。)

No.4 The meal ended with a raw pear Sorbet palate cleanser followed by his signature chocolate tart, which by now, must be one of London’s best puddings.

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我们每人付95.63英镑买菜单,每人两杯酒。

We met Tom afterwards, when he came out to greet his customers. Nice guy. It was a hero worship moment for me, we praised his cooking and he talked briefly about where he sourced those lovely French pigeons. He then told me that most of the time there’s only 3 people in the kitchen, himself, his sous chef Theo and another helping hand, which makes me respect this restaurant even more. Mad props.

我真的想把这个词记下来,但太多的爱要付出。邦汉姆餐厅真是太棒了。2015年伦敦最好的一次。我期待着第三次访问,我将再次向你介绍新年的情况。

Happy Christmas, eat well and stay safe kids, see you in 2016.

The Details

宝龙拍卖行的餐厅
现代,60英镑午餐,85英镑供应
Lunch Mon-Fri, Supper Club on Thursdays only
7 Haunch of Venison Yard W1K 5ES
Tel : +44 20 7468 5868
Tube : Bond Street

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