Bonhams Restaurant 2016年9月

Bonhams的其他餐点:10月16日Sept 16June 16五月十六Mar1612月Oct15

The guys are fresh from their summer break, fully recharged to tackle the new season. Becky (you are missed!) left earlier this year to tend to family and so Amy Boden (ex-Bibo, Pollen St, Square) steps in as Bonhams’ new restaurant manager. Amy’s great and will take great care of you when you visit.

这是我的11或第12次访问,我汇总了IG.那but not every visit finds its way on the blog. This is a good one to show you because Tom and Theo are transitioning to their Autumn menu, fuller flavours in contrast to the light summer, five or so elements on each plate.

显然,松鸡是在菜单上,并且可能会在整个月内完成,从而从所有人逃避亲爱的生活中的所有人。汤姆的版本是一个肯定的火美。就像他对Squab Pigeon的处理一样,他的年轻松鸡是非常纯粹的味道;没有沉重的游戏,我的猜测部分与他的烹饪方法有关,除了一个没有挂起的烹饪方法。烹饪与此类精致烹饪游戏的另一个人是Brett Graham。我更喜欢一个不是太高的人。

汤姆theo.continue to sharpen their skills and it’s been an exciting year following these princes of the a la minute. Truly this is one of London’s best restaurants today.

从夏洛特的Coravin Warchest,她倒了一杯2014年的抚奶(16.50英镑)和一个1999 Gevrey-Chambertin, En Champs by Denis Mortet(£32, great with the grouse).

As usual, I went for a long play, but not carte blanche as I ordered a bunch of the new dishes. I paid £153.56, for 7 courses (£85), 2 glasses of wine (£48.50), coffee (£3) and service.

Photos and notes below.

细节

Bonhams Restaurant
现代欧元
午餐:Mon-Fri,ALC£48PP(3课程)+饮料+服务Lunch Menu
晚餐:周三 - Fri 5课程为60亿英镑+饮料+服务
On Request : Carte blanche £90 for 8 courses + drinks + service

0. Canapes:在Nori Cracker上熏制的鳟鱼;凤尾鱼+蘑菇(?)泡沫泡沫泡沫脆

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1. Flamed Mackerel with plums, shiso, dashi consommé and confit ginger

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他们的屁股萨巴的新变化,虽然我认为在看到火炬枪之前是未固化的。季节性石材水果的智能配对,均衡了鲭鱼的固有的油性和腥味。然而,真正的精致是Commé,这么多工作,但它是看不见的。正如您所看到的那样,它是完全澄清的,我最初被认为被熏制鳗鱼。我问了这个是混合中鲭鱼股的结果,以及一些与其他事情的回火,我会在这里难以捉摸。康沃尔鲭鱼瘦的浸洗在里希尔海带森林和闲逛与抽烟的katsuo。

I loved the summer version with牡蛎泡沫和黄瓜,这需要一个秋天的步骤。精致的工作。

2.德文蟹与传家宝西红柿,王蟹果冻和茴香花粉

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在夏天,汤姆出现了一个Lango版本,我绝对崇拜。首先是贝类饼干套管,然后进化到一个平板用明胶在混合物中。

And here we have a further development with Devon (Cock?) crab. The jelly seems to have received further tune-up as it is very fragile and breaks as fork goes in – fine work ?. This then reveals claw, leg, white meat from main shell and rainbow colours of heirloom tomatoes. It tastes a la minute and I think the smooth creme crue has cooled it so it hides this well. Oyster leaf (which I always misidentify) gives the finish a stony mineral edge. Clean flavours. This is a pure dish, the essential crab flavour and like the mackerel, the true genius is in this slick, this “water” of crab.

3. Native lobster tail, coral, sweetcorn, endive and preserved lemon

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I make a request for Tom’s native lobsters at every visit, of course it’s not always possible to source (because coral), but when he manages, my god it’s good. The last time I had it, he paired withblood peach and pistachio mayo那which I thought to be quite the revelation. The mayo is quite special as I believe it is done with only egg whites and as you can imagine, this means a texture that is both seamless and quite light. Something which Tom had developed from his time with Mikael.

今天的蓝调已经产生了一个美丽且珊瑚酱。这种变异包括Smartcorn Pree,并为烟雾赋予烧焦。我注意到烤尾巴也匹配了甜圆形的巧克力,所以你周围的富含贝类甜味,奶油,然后是烟熏。隐藏在莴苣中,是保存柠檬的点,注射酸度的颠簸和触感的炎症苦味,以清新口感。每种比例被正确选择,并为快速良好的平衡。龙虾总是很棒,如果你喜欢它,请求,并问汤姆他用爪子做了什么。

4.慢慢煮熟的康沃尔·轰轰着Coco de Paimpol,保存的柠檬,欧芹和红辣椒Dashi泡沫

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得到拉珍珠层影响相机不是那么easy, need to turn the exposure down a little to. I did get it in a close-uphere。在蒸汽烤箱中,对温度的紧密控制,当然你需要体面的鱼(总是大一个)来实现这一目标。鱼之王中有国王。不仅仅是产生导致的,而是技术和尊重。你蒸鱼头知道我的意思。

泡沫有甜味,几乎辛辣的红辣椒用kombu umami舔下来的红辣椒。在它下面,它看起来像欧芹成了绿色酱汁。温暖,秋季的盘子就像一片大斑点的幽灵。

5. Highland Grouse with chard, damson coulis, quinoa and wild rice crumb and an offal and foie toast

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美丽的粉红粉红色,所以潮湿,让我想知道他们是如何做到的。这些家伙总是有游戏鸟类的魔术师,以某种方式管理从十二周转到没有行李的微妙清洁味道。鸟的质量让我想起了很多雷伯里偷猎和烤松鸡。实际上,汤姆在整理锅里弄清爽皮肤之前,汤姆已经复杂。顶级执行。我想知道腿是否已经进入了内部吐司或美味的jus?

Finally that toast, phew, delicious log right here. Check that pure slice of foie off the lobe melting over the offal. Bags of flavour and just something of simple pleasures about it. In some ways it is redolent of savoury durian, in its XO olfactory but yet also sweet, unctuous, buttery. The texture of the offal parfait (puree?) is entirely seamless. I’m thinking Monthong. King of fruit innit.

6. Pre-dessert : Elderflower sorbet, confit ginger with crumble

7. Soleil无花果,Fromage Blanc Sorbet和野花蜂蜜冰淇淋

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In between the thin pastry feuilles.

经典配对蜂蜜+无花果是优异的。这种布丁有助于确认冰淇淋的质量 - 一种折叠和无缝的Pacojet光滑质量,它像零碎屑版的焦糖外交官一样吃。Fromage Blanc将负载降低,透明和清洁酸度,与冰淇淋一起,它在口感上起着纹理技巧。

我的冬季水晶球预测巧克力Sabayon Tart的回归,甚至可能是从早些时候的神话蛋蛋羹挞。10月只有2周的距离......

Coffee and petit fours

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评论(2)

  1. 总是如此愉快的阅读......谢谢!这看起来很出色。我知道我一直这样说......但我真的需要把自己送到那边。

    • Hello Lesley – I’m very glad to hear you enjoy my stuff ! Yes do get yourself down there for a quick lunch, and hope you like it too.

      炕。

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