L'Ambroisie,巴黎

I was greeted casually by a silvering gentleman wearing a handsomely pressed gray suit, a slender fella with long arms hanging off his frame. Time has made a road map of this Frenchman’s face and turned his smartly groomed curls a shade of gunmetal grey, but I am certain that he is he; Pascal Vetaux, Directeur de Salle L’Ambroisie, est 1986. A lifetime. You could even say a little too casual, for you might expect more pomp due to the significance of this restaurant, but like many things, first hand experience reveals a reality that is often nothing like the stories they are portrayed.

“窗户的一张桌子,Monsieur”窃窃私语,用微笑和肢体语言打破,表明他尽力符合此餐馆的要求。当然是一个体面的家伙。一个小小的姿态,房子前面的艺术是追随者简单的人类体现。

He sat me in the middle of the three dining rooms (some say for the ‘initiated’, but as there were only 6 covers, perhaps we were all that for tuesday lunch), the largest in this opulently restored shop floor that formerly housed a silversmith. An impressive crystal chandelier hangs from the impressively tall ceiling, though it is the well-worn wood floors that interested me the most, at the edge of the rug under the dining tables, where Pascal and his team stood as they watchover their guests. Thin planks, oiled and darkened after decades of foot traffic. Maple?

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As I passed the first room, smaller with square white tiled floors, I spotted the great Bernard Pacaud blissfully arranging flowers in this windowless room. He stood in front of an epic Aubusson tapestry (which dates this building) than spanned the length of the wall. He tilted his head and nodded with a embarrassed look, of which I reciprocated. They say that this craftsman is a shy guy and much rather speak to you through his food.

自1987年以来,刺戳和L'Ambroisie居住在No.9 Place Des孚日省的地方,从塞纳河的另一面从他的另一侧搬到了他的当时原来的8座位餐厅。这家餐厅仍然是一个相当小的,容量不超过40个封面。在他举动时,伯纳德已经是两个主演的厨师。他在1988年拿起了第三位,他自从此保留了。

与这家餐厅有温和的极简主义,对我来说,2017年,似乎更符合日本工匠的激情,而不是他的法国人,更不用说当前一代人。简约是伯纳德·斯帕克的本质,追求最纯粹的Nouvelle美食,完美和永恒。我想知道伟大的厨师如何欣赏自己的美食。他是他的导师克劳德佩特特的脚步之后是谦卑的学徒,他仍然用尤金士的精神烹饪,以指导他的手和眼睛进行细节。

We have however already passed the crossroads of L’Ambroisie’s storied narrative. The great Chef will turn 70 this year and he had long since handed over the reigns to his next generation, Mathieu Pacaud. In recent times however, Mathieu himself has emerged from his father’s shadow to focus more time in forging his own path. You will already be aware of the success of the 36 year old’s Hexagones (*) and the interconnecting Histoires (**), and there is also the slowburn of the impending opening of L’Ambroisie in Macau (…). So it must delight loyal fans of the senior Pacaud, that he has come out from his ‘semi-retirement’ to look after his kitchen these days.

菜单每季更改一次,我们在冬季中间,或者更具体地说,在季节中点,为vaunted块茎孢子孢子成熟的时间。黑色冬季松露,或者因为我们在巴黎,这个季节的菜单庆祝的Perigord Black Diamond。

我发现了菜单上的Bel Humeur,我不确定如何感受。我的一半被兴高采烈,另一个半颤抖着恐惧。这顿饭后,我必须卖掉我的肾脏。我从ALC中选择4(在这里没有典型,你知道),并要求一小部分海经。

0.娱乐:黑色松露kouglof

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所以我们从这里开始,从烤箱中焕然一新,我被推动,因为在它内部的潮流和蓬松的棺材之间的潮流和蓬松的馅饼之间形成了对比,用蒸汽试图匆匆忙忙。Perigord Black Winter Truffle Trimmings进入这里,热量有助于将令人陶醉的气味漂浮到我的嗅觉中。一件简单的东西,完美地制作并在桌子上到达桌子,就像它一样。

1. Coquilles Saint Jacques Au Cresson,乳液De Truffe Noire,Truffe Noire Fraiche(amuse)
(Scallops, watercress, black truffle emulsion, fresh black truffle)

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“你的娱乐”提供宠物宽容笑容,因为他把这个原始的美丽物体放在桌子上。那么现在,这是一个很好的惊喜,这是一个初学者的一小部分。

一个经典搭配新鲜的扇贝与新鲜的黑色冬天松露,但男人,什么酱。阿罗马斯!黑色松露和我危险巴马干酪已被混合到蒸汽乳液中。温暖,香水陶醉,味道的平衡很激烈,但不重要。这是完美的。酱汁本身用于轻轻地温暖扇贝,我注意到外面的一点颜色,未加工在内,这就是说它没有一个令人惊叹的甜味丢失。

It may be hard scale from the photo, but believe me it was one of those giants the size of a child’s fist. Cut in half, and each with a canopy of black truffle (protecting its modesty), which always leads me to wonder if this is Scotland’s finest rather than Brittany. Regardless the quality of the ingredient was stunning, as I mentioned, stunningly sweet. It was atypically dense and firm, where I wonder if this is the result of the gentle heat, or the spasming from a fresh shuck. Perhaps it was a simpler reason, that he quickly compressed under cling film. At the base hides a puree of watercress, chlorophyll and all, as a bright foil to the luxuriousness going on above.

Three elements on a plate, harmoniously precise, high impact flavours with certain lightness.

2.Feuillantines de langoustines oux grines de sesame,酱汁au curry
(含有芝麻Feuillantines和咖喱酱的泪水)

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L'Ambroisie,2017年1月。 - 当板上土地时,烤的Lango尾巴的气味?

由康(@londoneater)发布的视频188金宝搏网站地址

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这么简单又重要。4个元素,但最终结果如他们所说:大于其组成部分的总和。板上的每个部件都精心挑选和仔细烹制,协调以击中所有五种口味等于相同的措施。

首先,您与烤朗科尾巴的香气会面,眼睛捕捉咖喱酱的乱蓬蓬的光泽。在我的口味,就像一个美味的加冕酱,尽管纹理纹理,味道温和。咖喱不会妨碍,而是增强了那些XL尾巴的天然甜味。

尾巴被煮熟的mi cuit,从潘,法国wok-hei,敢说,敢于美妙的烟雾弥漫。组织薄芝麻Brik毛黛,而这种疯狂,显着地充满了盘子的咸梅花。菠菜提供纹理和触摸Langultines的痛苦,并且它也起到了创造整体愉悦档案的角色。纯粹的衡量风格,无复杂性没有所需的培训味。什么是菜。纯净的美味。

3. Escalopines de bar à l’émincé d’artichauts, nage réduite au caviar golden (Small)
(Seabass escalopines, artichokes, reduced nage with golden caviar)

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And so the story repeats itself again. The third plate of striking simplicity, elegant plating and yet another that delivers mind boggling maximum pleasure.

鱼很轻轻,直到珍珠光泽,and you can tell the temperature is hanging in the low 50s degC, because the skin glistens still, and yet to break from the flesh. At first this half-cooked skin gives off a funky stench, ladle the nage and you get why it’s there – a bold flavour to be tempered by the buttery fish reduction and those little umami bombs of golden (Chinese) caviar. It floods your senses with the salt, fleur de sel and caviar, working in unison like an a la minute curing effect.

Amazingly, the choice of high quality caviar is integral rather than a luxury (in this context), to the “design” of this dish, as it acts to provide a fully lubricated, polished, slippery mouth feel. And this is perhaps the most satisfying part of the dish, hard to translate into words how gorgeously fine it is.

所以我会尝试中文,入口入口化(Ru Ko ji hua),这意味着'进入你的嘴里时消失了'。所以现在我明白为什么他正在这么轻柔地煮掉鱼,因为追求美食 - 奢侈的柔软度 - 追求并实现。

And then you take a bite of the (equally gently cooked, but for an altogether different reason) chokes, you have texture and then amongst the salt, the sweetness of the vegetable reveals itself, as if it were masquerading as the secret main ingredient all along. Wow moment.

It is quite amazing how he’s transformed seabass. For me the typical experience of seabass is firm, clean but also dry and uninteresting, unlike say turbot which retains its oils. Here, the bass keeps its oils, and flakes with buttery moistness. Awesome cooking. For sure, the best seabass I’ve ever tasted.

4. Feuillete de truffe noire fraiche ‘bel humeur’ , salade frisee nicoise a la creme
(Black truffle puff pastry ‘good mood’, frisee nicoise salad)

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L'Ambroisie,2017年1月。冬季菜单。- Bel Humeur。???????-

由康(@londoneater)发布的视频188金宝搏网站地址

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使用F1预设使用VSCO处理

I had some reservations about ordering this, firstly because of the cold snap throughout Europe last week, so I worried for quantity of quality haul and secondly it looks utterly simple to make, so how could it be profound, if at all.

Like the rest of Pacaud’s dishes, his genius lies in the seemingly banal, if you can call an oreo cookie using thick cuts from whole Perigord truffle, that.

The pie is surprisingly light, it had me wondering if there was a vinaigrette as there was a jot of freshness to my palate, as opposed to the expectation of heaviness. Could this be brandy perhaps?

我第一次拥有相当宽大的松露块是当Mikael Jonsson为盎司黑色的“掘金”提供了小的“掘金”,夏天用他的Squab盘。一个先驱的先驱,虽然是Hedone的新鲜松露的“干”碎片,而不是这熟的“湿”碎片。

而且你需要高品质的成熟松露,因为它是公司(如果你的松露是陈旧的或不成熟的)和易碎性的那样,那就是坚定的,那就是钥匙。

This textural experience is sensational, when extrapolated to large chunks as this, well, it turns out it is the best way to ‘eat’ the black winter truffle. The foie both seasons and lubricates the truffle and for me, it was much like a densely compressed cooked mushroom. A king oyster or a cep. Crumbly like cold chocolate, also a little squidgy, moisten by the chunky truffle sauce, the deep seasoning releasing wave upon wave of glorious truffle aroma as you eat it.

Like the caviar / seabass, the truffle in this form is integral to the ‘design’ of the dish, for the purposes of both taste and texture.

拉菲酒庄1995年15 cl玻璃。

用VSCO处理C2预设

The sommelier Christoph left the wine menu with me to peruse, but I really was scratching my head at the mark-ups. Obviously all the first growths and hallowed Burgundies are present, but I hardly think 3500euroes is worth a DRC in a good year, let alone a ’95 Lafite.

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Then I glanced at the BTG list, and I had to do a double take. 160 euroes for a 150ml of ’95 Lafite, in the year of 2017? In a restaurant? Yes to some of you, you might think I’ve gone mad, but to those of you who know, then you know this is actually a steal.

I did wonder if Bernard went a little crazy the night before, accidentally popped the cork on this bottle. Rather this is more likely the reward of a 36 year restaurant cellar (I hear you Kian at T!) that undoubtedly has bought EP in its time.

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如所预期的那样,Lafite非常好,实际上仍然年轻,只是只是以一点肮脏的比赛形式占据一些次要角色。鼻子是经典的pauillac,满是雪松和石墨。单宁起初曾经出现过,空气丝身靠在骨髓嘴上。结束很长时间,就像一个拒绝消失的腹股镜。首先是增长质量,正如他们所说,还有一个令人难以置信的餐厅,让食客喝酒喝酒喝酒的机会,没有偷偷溜进四位数的领土。

I had hoped for London restaurants to do this with the advent of Coravin, but even The Sampler’s xmas blow-out lafites are £50 to £100 (the latter for the ’82s)for 25ml shots. As I said a steal, that makes the meal more ‘value-driven’ than say… potatoes, potataoes and some shallots at L’Arpege.

我告诉你什么,我后悔没有2001年Prieur Montrachet,'只有'140欧元......

口感清洁剂:柑橘山梨醇,焦糖,烘焙蛋白甜饼

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A quick reset before we march on to the home stretch..

5. Tarte fine sablee au cacao amer, creme glacee a la vanille Bourbon

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......到传说中的L'Ambroisie布丁。Sabayon填充是令人难以置信的。用数百万空气气泡抱着泛滥,鞭打,拿起它以产生空灵亮度。所以点亮它让你忘记了多么集中了Madagascan香草冰淇淋。

这是可爱的工作,但我确实认为这座纤维基地太厚了,与光线填充的跳跃造影,与剩下的饭的琐碎。

Which is why I think the homage made atBonhams,同样好,如果不是更好的话,特别是用冰淇淋在冰淇淋下的酸痛。

仍然是一个突破性的布丁当然和原来。在Bonhams之外,你不会在吹嘘这一点时发现一些东西。

Mignardises

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冬季菜单2017年1月

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697 euroes, all food, 1 glass of 1995 Lafite, service, tax, for one person. Considering the quality, quantity, you get what you pay for.

The best ingredients in its most pristine condition, handled with the utmost respect to polish and to finesse to exacting proportions as the recipe demands in ultimate service of maximising natural flavour. That is all of L’Ambroisie.

那真的是什么?这种最纯粹的美食理想追求?在厨房里度过了一生的工匠,在达到它的现实中花了什么?这就是我感觉的感觉。鲈鱼和鱼子酱是完美的。海螯虾和咖喱是完美的。你会把相同的措施应用于完美的汉堡,完美的Tonkatsu,完美的炒鸡蛋,完美的Millefeuille,完美的Amatriciana,完美的Zuke Oma Akami,完美的鳄鱼和香槟,完美的白斩鸡肉。

供应,需求,政治意味着它们的价格不平等,但最终目标是相同的:纯洁的美味。你和我的是,作为食物追逐的爱好者。天堂的盖茨并不总是开放,但你仍然坚持你的搜索,以便品尝爪子时刻。你寻求提醒自己,为什么你喜欢尽可能多地爱的根本原因,以解决你的腰部燃烧。激情是无价的。这就是L'Ambroisie所在。

Details

L’Ambroisie
法国国宝
£......这将是值得的......
9 Place Des Vosges 75004巴黎,法国
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 78 51 45
地铁:Saint-Paul / Bastille

评论(11)

  1. WOW this is amazing! I am not sure if they will have truffle in March when I visit… Montrachet is a good deal, but the 95 Lafite at only a hundred something euros is incredible! Thank you!

  2. My God KANG…….KANG……KANG , You`ve gone crazy man. WOW , that`s a huge price to pay for one. Tell you something though , jeez , every course was so magical….memorable and pure luxury. Classic from beginning to end and right up my street. To me , this is what cooking is all about – The very best of the best.
    好东西。

    • 艾伦 - 你肯定会去!将是一餐......并确保玻璃杯饮用巨大的底线......这是'值得'......这比价格过高的枝条。

  3. 100%同意你的树枝。
    Could never justify paying that for a glass of wine though. Each to their own passions.
    Must mention this to my dining buddy , Mr finediningexplorer , I`m sure he`ll be interested in this.

    • Alan, normally i wouldn’t urge, and it also dependant on what they put on the BTG list on the day , but in this case, considering it is lafite, the price is close to retail, with little mark-up.

      它通常不是喝1000英镑的葡萄酒,所以在某种程度上,它在这个价格上的一杯不是一个不好的方式来'尝试它'。但是,每个人当然都是自己的。对我来说,我宁愿这一点,而不是支付一般行业3-4x在餐馆中的葡萄酒。

  4. Kang L : Superb review , with gratifying expression of sentiment in the words. After a long while, I’ve come across a worthy review of this iconic restaurant. Stunning finishing lines of the write-up !

  5. 我们订购了完全相同的菜肴和葡萄酒。伟大的评论!

    You have to come back in December for the white truffle menu. 我听说特别好吃。

  6. How far in advance did you reserve? Was planning on going in July but all my plans haven’t fallen in place. Do you reckon I’ll be ok reserving in a couple weeks?

    • 你好灰,

      我提前几周预订了几周,为期一周的午餐。房间很空,只有3张桌子。在周末和晚上可能是忙碌的。

      Kang

  7. pingback:L'Ambroisie,巴黎 - 众神的食物|gen.u.ine.ness.ness

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